The highlands of north-west Ethiopia are being ravaged by one of the world’s most invisible wars. Since 2023, an insurgency led by Amhara nationalists – from the country’s second-largest ethnic group – has seized large swathes of the region that bears their name.
Known collectively as the Fano, these local armed militias say they are defending their community against violence by the federal government and neighbouring ethnic groups.
The Amhara region is a natural fortress, with peaks rising above 4,000m. It is also the historic cradle of Ethiopia’s early kingdoms. Long the country’s political and religious centre, it allowed the Amhara to occupy a central place in national life until the end of the 20th century.
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